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Manufacturing and Commitment

Commitment to yarn and explanation of spinning wool

Wool yarns are classified into spun and combed yarns. Woolen spinning, which produces spun yarn, is an industrialized version of handspinning, and corresponds to the kind of yarn that most people imagine. The surface of the yarn is soft and fluffy, and it is soft and light because it contains a lot of air.

The process of making woolen yarn

Dyeing(Out sourcing)

Raw wool is imported in a washed state and dyed as necessary. At our partner factories, we dye the raw wool in its original state (wadding) using TOP dyeing, and spin yarns that take advantage of the original qualities of the material using techniques cultivated over many years.

Mixing

This is the process of mixing multiple raw wools to make them easier to spin. Different materials and colors are evenly mixed, and the hardened portions are loosened to allow more air to be added. A mixture of water and water-soluble oil, called blending oil, is added to reduce fiber damage and make spinning easier.

Carding

This is the process of aligning fibers by further stirring the blended raw materials; a single sheet is divided into thin strips and lightly rubbed to create shino (sliver), the preliminary stage of yarn. By separating individual fibers, impurities and extremely short fibers are removed.

Spinning mule

This is the process of twisting carded shino into flat yarns by stretching and twisting. Twisting results in a single thread, called a mono yarn, which has increased strength and elasticity. Each yarn made of mules is wound at about 80g. The process of blending - mules is called spinning.

Cone up

The amount of yarn raised by mules is as small as 80g, and the process is to wind it up while joining it together until it reaches a usable weight of 1kg. Not only is the yarn reeled, but it is also removed with the latest machines to remove unacceptable yarn and foreign matter. When joining the yarns together, air is used to return the twist at the yarn ends, and then the yarn is twisted again to produce a knot-free yarn.

Twisting

This is the process of twisting a single yarn into two or three strands of any thickness. By twisting different yarns, not only can new yarns be created, but it is also possible to vary the strength, fullness and lightness of the yarn.

The founder
– Tatsuro Ishii -

The late Tatsuro Ishii, founder and first president, was a technological pioneer in Japan's wool industry and was regarded as both a teacher and a god. After graduating from the spinning and weaving department of Tokyo Higher Technical School (known as Kuramae High School of Technology, now Tokyo Institute of Technology), he entered the wool industry by working at an army arsenal. One of his classmates at that time was the late Kazumi Takahashi, chairman of Nippon Felt Co.
After serving in the army for 9 years and 8 months, he worked for Takada Wool Weaving for 1 year and 4 months, Fuji Wool Weaving for 1 year and 5 months, Manchurian Wool Weaving for 3 years and 2 months, Kurihara Boshoku for 10 years and 9 months, and after working as an advisor to Kitabo After working as an advisor to Kitabo, he established his own company, Kogane Wool Textile Co. During this time, he was involved in Marushin Felt and Asahi Fibers, but in each case, he served as a technical leader, and it was largely due to his character to say no when asked to do so.

 From the Taisho to the Showa period, Japan was in the midst of a transition from kimono to western-style clothing, and wool weaving technology was noticeably lagging behind. In the midst of this situation, the company was always one step ahead of advanced technology, studying at the University of Leeds in England and visiting Australia to "create woolen fabrics better than those made in England" with passion.
 Ltd. (formerly Kurihara Boshoku), and became a leader in the technological improvement of Kurihara Boshoku, which was more like a small factory and had only the technology of spinning and weaving muslin yarn for kimono fabrics and finishing muslin for carpeting, and was behind the scenes in the "big change". He was a behind-the-scenes force behind the "big change. Ishii himself was not greedy and knew how to move forward or backward.
 Ishii came to own his own company when he had the opportunity to invite a company to the site of a former junior high school in Koganecho, where he lived. In addition to his business activities, Ishii was also busy taking care of the industry. Tatsuo Ishii believed in the development of the woolen textile industry in Japan. His legacy lives on at Kogane Wool Textile today.